Horse Fencing - Installing the Boards

Board fencing is attractive, functional and easy to install. The most common type of board is rough sawn oak, 1" x 6".  Boards are commonly available in 16-foot lengths and attached to post that are spaced 8 feet apart. 

When selecting material, watch out for warped, loose knots and checking.

Other articles discuss the types of fencing, installing fence posts and wire fencing.

Four-board fence with vertical face

Planning the Fence

Before you get started, check local zoning and building codes.  Be sure that there are no restrictions in your homeowners association rules.  Observe all property boundary setbacks and utility easements.

With a drawing of your land, mark off where your want to run the fence.  Mark where you want to add gates and walk the perimeter.  If you are crossing any underground utilities, call to have these marked.

Plan to set the posts just under 8 feet apart.  We recommend that you space the posts every 7' 9" to allow for cutoff of checked boards and variations in setting the posts.  Measure the distance to be fenced and calculate the number of boards required.  The number depends of the type of fencing.  Typically oak board fencing is three or four boards per section. Increase the amount by 10 percent to allow for warped and split boards.  It's always good to have a few spares around in the future.

Have the fence boards dropped off close to where they will be installed, preferably on the highest spot.  It's much easier to drag the boards downhill than uphill.

Planning the fence layout

Include adequate number of gates

Drop load of fence boards

Selecting Nails

Choose the right nail for the job.  The nail should be galvanized (coated) to help prevent rust.  For hand nailing, a spiral or ring-shank nail will help prevent the nails from pulling loose.  As your fence boards dry, a tremendous amount of pressure may be created forcing the nail to be pulled.  Instead of a common nail, choose a spiral shank nail.

The nail should be 16d or 3 1/2" long.  For a more in-depth discussion, click here.

Many of the spiral nails commonly sold these days bend easily when pounded into the oak board.  If you can locate a hardened spiral nail, use these.  This will reduce nail bending greatly.

Use three nails per end board.  Keep the nails at least 1 1/2" from the end of the board and 1" from the edge of the board.

Box of spiral nails

Common and spiral nails

Use three nails per board on each post

Measure Board Length

Measure the distance from the center of one post to the center of the next.  You don't need to be too accurate, but try to keep to at least 1/2" accuracy.

Mark the board with a pencil or nail.  When fencing on a hill, you may need to cut the board at an angle.  Make the cut vertical to evenly cover the face of the post.  

Setting the Top Row

Set a nail in the first post and run a string (mason's twine) down the row of posts.  Add a nail in each post.  Adjust the line to get a smooth flowing top line.  

Power

You will probably need to have a portable generator.  Make sure that there is sufficient wattage to run your tools.  Use at least 2,500 watt, preferably 4,000 or 5,000 watts.  This will be needed to power your saw, drill and air compressor for the nail gun.  You can hand saw the oak boards, but this will take a long time and lots of elbow grease.

Measure length between center of posts

Mark length to cut (no need for a square)

Portable generator

Cut and Pre-Drill the Boards

With the board marked, cut off the ends using your circular saw.  Some fencers use a chain saw, but this tends to be more dangerous and produces a rough and uneven edge.

When hand nailing it is best to pre-drill the holes for the nail.  It takes more time to pre-drill and we recommend this for the following reasons.

• Less board splitting

• Less effort when hand nailing

• Faster time to first secure the board and less time required to hold the board in place

• Allows for one-person operation

Nailing the Boards

A heavy framing hammer is a prerequisite.  Lighter weight hammers require too much effort to drive the nail through the oak and into the post.  

As an alternative to hand nailing you can buy or rent nail guns.  Cordless nailers use a battery and fuel cell. The nails are coated and available in ring shank for a better grip. A nail gun and compressor can be used, just be sure to use a large framer nail gun or you will not be able to penetrate the oak board.  

Spacing the Boards

Start by nailing in the top board.  Rather than marking for the lower boards, you can make a hanging jig from 2 x 4.  The jig should hang over the top board and nail on blocks as hangers for the lower boards.  This will allow for one-person installation and eliminate to hold up the lower boards. 

Cut board with circular saw

Drill nail hole when hand nailing

Using cordless nail gun

Complete the job

With the fence rails nailed, a nice finish is to run a 4-foot vertical board at each post.  This will both cover the board cuts and add another set of nails to help secure the rails.  

To avoid splinters, use a hand shaper or very coarse sandpaper over the rails.

Finish the wood with paint or stain.  This can be sprayed or applied with a roller.  Rather than oil- or water-based you might want to try a special economical acrylic polymer coating such "FenceCoat."  Avoid inexpensive asphalt coatings.

Additional reading material:

Fencing Options for Horse Farm Management in Virginia from Virginia Tech

Fence supplied from Fenceworks

Fence types from Backyard Gardener

Fencing FAQ's from American Fence Association

Vinyl fencing from the Fence Center, Genova Products, Kroy Building Products

Aluminum fencing and gates from Moultri

Finished fence row

Fenced off paddock area

Fence break for water trough