Hanging Drywall

If you are replacing old drywall or have new construction, it's time to hang the drywall. You should have completed all the electrical and plumbing work. Don't forget to run any telephone and now is a great time to run extra CAT 5 cable for a computer network.

Before you button up the wall, make sure that have had your work inspected.

If you are going to hang drywall on the ceiling, do that first. Usually you use 1/2" drywall for walls although you could use thicker if you like.  Again, it is a good idea to check local building codes.  You will also need some fasteners.  I recommend 1 - 1/4" drywall screws.  They will not "pop" on you later.  You will also need a screw gun or other electric drill/screwdriver.  If you use nails, make sure that you get drywall nails.  They have "rings" on the nail and big heads so that they hold better.  You will also need joint compound (mud) and tape.  Use the solid paper tape, it generally provides better results. Also, pick-up outside corner trim pieces as this will last much longer than just compound.

Cutting out for electrical box using RotoZip

Hang the Drywall

Drywall is best hung from the top down.  Normal framing is slightly longer than 8' so you want the gap to be at the bottom.  It is best to have a helper for this job, drywall is heavy and awkward and trying to screw or nail a sheet up by yourself is all but impossible.  There is a device called a "sheet lifter" that can help but another human is generally cheaper.  Another tip is to mark the drywall every 16" before you lift it into place so that it is easier to find the studs when hanging the drywall.  If you need help cutting drywall, check out the How-To.

Top Course

Lift the drywall into place.  Check either end to make sure that the drywall is in the middle of a stud on either end (an inside corner should be pushed all the way into the corner).  Start driving screws or nails.  You should use a nail or screw every 6"-7".  Make sure that the screw/nail head ends up just below the surface of the drywall.  Check your local codes for the distance they require.  Butt the next piece into place and screw/nail it into place.  Complete the entire course on the wall.

Bottom Course

Position the sheet of drywall so that it butts tight against the top course.  Screw or nail it into place.  If there are any electrical boxes or other obstructions, make sure that you cut them out before affixing the drywall.  Use either a hole saw or a utility knife to cut them.

Staggered joints between top and bottom course

Using hole saw to cut out for electrical box

Using screw gun to screw in drywall

Taping the Joints

Taping drywall joints is covered in several how-to's:
  
Taping inside corners,  click here.  
Taping mid-wall, straight joints,  click here.  

The main thing to remember is to avoid humps in the wall where the joints are.  

Videos:

Taping Joints - covers butt joints but works for all
Second Coat of Mud - after mud is dry
Sanding - cleaning it up

Mark electrical box for cut-out

Using RotoZip to cut-out opening

Note the gap when using broad knife indicating more compound is needed