Installing the Trim Molding
Now it's time to install the
molding. First you need to prepare the existing window or door jambs, ensuring
these are flush to the wall. In an old house, like this, you may need to use a
wood file/rasp or belt sander.
First measure the length of
the stock required. The length depends on the rosette and reveal of the
window/door jamb. I prefer a 3/8" reveal of the jamb. Bringing the trim flush
to the jamb will show a crack and with imperfect jams, it will be nearly
impossible to match the two. With a reveal or recess, you will be able to split
differences due to warps in the jambs.
If you walls are not plumb,
one trick is to trim the back of the molding. This can be done with your table
saw and/or belt sander. Be careful not to remove too much stock as this may
come through the front bead recess groves!
Attaching the trim requires finishing nails (1-1/2 or 2"). In old
house renovation with existing plaster walls, you may also want to use
construction adhesive. The corner rosettes are best glued in place because of
the dimensions, nailing may cause the block to split.
If you are staining and
finishing the wood, it is probably best to wait to fill in the nail holes and
cracks until the final varnish coat is applied. I prefer to use colored stick
putty to match the satin. After stain and varnish you rub the crayon-like stick
over the holes and fill the voids.
Conversely if the molding is
to be painted, I generally use latex painters caulk to fill the cracks between
the molding and the wall and putty to fill the nail holes.